*** Please Read Before Purchasing***

These eggs come from happy and healthy chickens raised right here in North Central North Carolina. Our flock is NPIP Certified and AI Clean and our Farm is a member of the American Poultry Association. Whether you're a seasoned poultry farmer or a beginner just starting out, these hatching eggs are a great choice for starting or adding new life to your flock.

We do not wash hatching eggs so not to remove the natural protective bloom, an although our hatch rate on the farm is 97 percent with commercial Incubators, we hatch 300 of our eggs every 21 days, to monitor hatch rates it is industry standard that mailed eggs usually have a reduced hatch rate this is due to how they are handled by the USPS. We ship all eggs within 48 hours of them being laid so that our eggs are fresh the day we mail them. All eggs are shipped in foam shipper with pointed end down and in priority mail shipping boxes and are clearly marked with labels stating: (Fragile, Live Embryos, Hatching Eggs, No X-Ray, Avoid Extreme Temperatures and a NPIP Certificate Label with our Certification Number on it.) Due to these issues that may still occur in shipping. We are unable to refund your purchase for any reason. And we absolutely do not except returns of perishable items. “Please do not ship incubated eggs back to the Post office.

We only ship hatching eggs Monday-Wednesday. unless otherwise requested by the customer. Understand that shipped eggs can have 0-100% hatch rate. It is the gamble you are taking when you ship live hatching eggs. If you choose to purchase this order you consent to these terms of sale. No returns, No refunds. If your order is for some reason defective in your mind, please reach out to us and let’s see if we can resolve the matter.

Leaving negative feedback on the page without consulting me for a resolution is unacceptable. Leaving me negative feedback for issues that happen with the USPS after your order is shipped is nowhere in my control. So, should I get a bad mark for the postal service? All orders are insured by the USPS. It’s your purchase and you must make the claim for shipping insurance.

Please consider checking us out on our Facebook @MoretzFarms. or at our website at moretzfarms.com

Moretz Farms Hatch helping guide.

During shipping, your eggs may have experienced excessive variations in temperature, humidity and pressure changes that may have occurred with fluctuations in altitude. These conditions coupled with careless handlers can, unfortunately, affect the viability of the eggs.

Thank you again for your purchase! Here's a few tips to maximize your hatch!!

• Carefully remove each egg from the foam shipper. DO NOT lift the entire shipper out of the box! The eggs will fall out of the bottom!!
• Inspect each egg for cracks or damage. To check for micro-cracks, use a Candler or bright flashlight. A cracked egg, even if the crack does not penetrate the membrane, becomes susceptible to bacteria. Do not incubate any damaged eggs, they could ruin your entire hatch. Please Don’t risk it.

Please notify me if there is significant damage to your eggs upon arrival. If applicable, please take pictures to provide evidence for the USPS claim.

• Candle the eggs to ensure the air cell at the big end of each egg is stable. Shipping can cause air cells to be detached completely or partially, rolling, saddled, or scrambled. The air cell should appear round and secure. Mark any eggs that have "questionable" air cells for easy identification.
• Place the eggs, pointy end down, into an egg carton, hatching tray or the foam shipper. Let eggs rest, undisturbed, at room temperature for 24 hours prior to setting. This resting period can greatly increase your hatch rates by allowing the air cell to settle back into the proper position.
• While eggs are resting, prepare your incubator. This will allow 24 hours to evaluate the humidity and temperature stability. I set my incubator at 100 degrees Fahrenheit, relative humidity, on days l-17 at 45-55% and on days 18-21 at 60-70%.
• If you determine any air cells to be detached. even in the slightest, I highly recommend setting the eggs in your incubator vertically' (big end up) and leaving them to incubate without disturbing or turning for 2-3 days. As the germinal disk develops the veining will help stabilize the air cell at the top of the egg. For what it's worth, when I set shipped eggs, I always let them sit for 36-48 hours after setting regardless of any signs of detachment. If I do see signs of detachment, I let them sit for a full 72 hours.
• Keep me posted as to your progress and do not hesitate to reach out with any questions or concerns!
• Most importantly, have fun! Enjoy the process and the adorable result!
• Good luck and Happy Hatching!!

Phone 336-280-6664        https://www.facebook.com/Moretzfarms      moretzfarms@outlook.com

Chick Care Guide                                     Visit us at www.moretzfarms.com

When taking your chicks home, give them access to warm (room temperature) drinking water as soon as possible. Gently dip their beaks in the water, so they know what it is and where it is.

Chicks should have a brooding area at least 105-degrees for the first hour and lower the temperature to 95-degrees over the next few hours. You can lower the temperature by lifting the heat lamp. Chicks should be in a brooding area that has a surface temperature of 90- 95-degrees for the first week. Lower the temperature by five-degrees per week until you reach 70-degrees. Temperatures may need to be slightly higher for bantams or Seramas.

IF THE TEMPERATURE IS:

• Too cold – most chicks crowding under the heat lamp.
• Too warm – most chicks spread out away from the heat lamp.
• Just right – some chicks are under the lamp, others are near the heat source, and a few are spread out in other areas

 *Chicks should have at least a ½-square foot of space per chick to move away from the heating lamps if necessary.

* Block corners of the brooder with cardboard to make wider angles that are harder for chicks to pile on top of each other to prevent smothering.

 *If chicks appear weak or lethargic, mix about two-tablespoons of sugar into one-quart of warm water and give to the chicks. After 16 hours, switch to the regular water.

 

 *To help chicks start eating, put chick feed on a small flat surface, like a container lid, so they can easily find the feed. This helps deter them from eating the bedding. We recommend using Purina Organic 18%® Starter/Grower and with Smaller Chicks like Seramas we do suggest grinding the feed into a meal with a food Processor to make it eatable.

* Use larger wood shavings as bedding on the floor of the brooding area. Do not use sawdust, sand, cedar chips or shavings, or newspaper.

FOOD & WATER: Give chicks a starter/grower feed until they lay their first egg, then switch to an egg layer feed. We recommend Purina Organic 18%® Starter/Grower and Purina Layer Pellets that contain essential oils, prebiotics, and probiotics.

*Use an easily accessible one-foot trough feeder or round feeder and a one-gallon waterer for every 25 chicks.

Chicks need continuous access to water and feed. If you have broilers, refer to the “Meat Bird Care” sheet for special feeding instructions to avoid ascites or water belly

 HEALTH TIPS: Chicks will use their beaks to groom or peck themselves. Occasionally pecking amongst chicks will become a problem if the brooding area is too hot or too crowded. We suggest using a red heat lamp to reduce brightness and the tendency to peck at each other.

*Occasionally, the rear end of a chick will get manure stuck to it “pasting” up. If you see this happen, very gently wash the “paste” off with a cloth and warm water. Pasting should last no more than a few days and can be caused by stress from shipping or relocation.